In a previous column, I discussed the idea of decanting wines and observed that even some white wines can benefit from the process. However, decanting is more than simply pouring wine from a bottle into some kind of weirdly-shaped container. There are a few basic steps that should be followed, and doing so will help to increase the character of the wine — and your enjoyment — as well.

Fundamentally, decanting serves two purposes: to separate an aged wine from any sediment that may have formed, and to aerate a young, still-closed wine so that the flavors and aromas will open up and intensify.

Decanting an older red wine is done to remove the sediment that the wine produces as it ages. What happens is that the tannins bond with other components and fall out of the liquid. If you just pour it from the bottle into the glass, you’ll get a cloudy wine. It will taste fine, but it’s not pretty. Since we can usually expect sediment to occur in older reds, the process of separating it from the clear wine is worth the time.

Start by putting the bottle upright for at least 24 hours before you’re ready to drink it. The sediment will settle to the bottom of the bottle. Pour the wine into the decanter slowly and steadily — that’s important. It’s also a good idea to hold a candle or flashlight under the neck of the bottle. When you see the sediment reach the neck, or if the wine seems to become a bit cloudy, stop pouring. There may be an ounce or two of liquid left in the bottle, but this should be discarded.

When a wine is in the decanter and exposed to air, a few things happen that improve the quality and take off the rough edges. Evaporation allows the volatile components of the wine to move to the top of the decanter and disappear, making the wine a bit smoother. Getting rid of these components can also help the aromas seem a bit more pure on the nose.

When you open a bottle of wine, two things start to happen — oxidation and evaporation — both of which seem to smooth out rough edges and can make a wine seem more expressive, more aromatic, and better integrated.

We also believe that aerating the wine should be part of the decanting process. An extra jolt of air helps the wine to open up and releases more of the flavor components. We use a little gadget called a Vinturi. It’s kind of a plastic funnel with holes in the sides that bring air into the wine as it drains through. We pour the wine through the Vinturi into the decanter (watching for sediment at all times, of course). It’s worth the extra step.

You do have to be careful when decanting older wines. If you have some collectibles that are 10–15 years old, they are fragile and lose their aromas and flavors after relatively brief exposure to air. A few years ago, we were treated to a tasting by Chuck and Ann McMinn, the owners of Vineyard 29 in Napa. Chuck opened a bottle of Cabernet vintage around 1975. The first sip was delicious, but by the time we got around to the second, the aromas and flavors had completely disappeared.

It’s worth experimenting with a few bottles at the same time. Decant one, and drink the other straight from the bottle and see which experience is more complete. There are really no strict rules for this process, so a bit of trial and error can be very revealing. And you can always drink the results.

Meanwhile, please enjoy some new discoveries:

The Prisoner Unshackled Chardonnay California 2021 ($10) — The nose gives you peach and apple aromas followed by peach and apricot notes on the palate. Nice acid balance with a bit of minerality. Wine Whisperer rating on a scale of 100: WW 88

Stags’ Leap Viognier Napa Valley 2023 ($25) — I enjoy this varietal for its unmistakable floral aromas. This example comes through with notes of orange blossom and jasmine. Lemon and peach on the palate with some vanilla and honey. WW 90

Clarendelle Bordeaux White 2023 — A refined and elegant wine, offering bright citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit, balanced by the smooth sweetness of pear and lychee. I’ll write more about this historic — and somewhat unusual — wine producer very soon. WW 89

Jerry Greenfield is The Wine Whisperer — a wine author, educator, and consultant. Order his books, Secrets of the Wine Whisperer and Ask the Wine Whisperer, and read his blog at www.winewhisperer.com.