As we all know, the wine world is a very big place. There’s a lot to know, and a lot to understand. Just figuring out all the winegrowing regions in Italy (there are 20 of them) can be the work of a lifetime.
And with all those facts, figures, and other information, there have sprung up over the centuries (millennia, actually) a lot of common beliefs that are not entirely true. When I teach my wine classes, I almost always get asked about the most widespread myths and misinformation that has found its way into our common knowledge.
So, in the spirit of scholarship and greater wine appreciation, let’s tackle some beliefs that we really need to let go of.
1. Legs are an indication of quality
This idea is very deeply ingrained in many people’s approach to wine. When we swirl a glass, we see little rivulets run down the inside surfaces. These are called “tears” or “legs.” This belief was so widespread that some wineries would actually put glycerin in their wines to create just that effect. It’s also used to add body to some wines and reduce harshness.
Fact: This effect is caused by the different rates of evaporation of water and alcohol. Alcohol evaporates more quickly, so the water left behind runs down the sides of the glass. Legs can tell us about the alcohol content (more legs = higher alcohol) but nothing about the actual quality.
2. Sulfites give you headaches
This is one of the most widespread misunderstandings about wine. Yes, winemakers add sulfur dioxide to many wines as a preservative and stabilizer — after all, wines can be shipped long distances and stored for many years before consumption.
But all wines contain some sulfites naturally from fermentation. Plus, if you’ve ever eaten dried fruit, you’ve consumed more sulfites than appear in that glass of wine. For example, the maximum allowed level of sulfites in a dried apricot is 10 times that in wine.
So what really causes headaches? Nobody is entirely certain, but evidence points to histamines and phenolic compounds from grape skins. Phenolics affect the rate at which our bodies break down alcohol, which can lead to headaches, nausea, and other unpleasant sensations. Interestingly, red wines are lower in sulfites than whites.
3. You decant only red wines
Many red wines improve in taste and body when exposed to air. Exposure softens the tannins, which are the main structural component of reds (the stuff that makes your mouth feel dry and tacky in a very young, full-bodied red). Decanting helps “soften” the wine and release aroma and flavor components. Swirling in the glass aerates it further.
Much to my surprise, while researching this article, I discovered that white and rosé wines can also improve from air exposure. According to Decanter magazine, this is especially true for fruity and floral aromas in lighter-colored wines like rosés made with extended skin contact. I’ve never decanted a white before, but I’m certainly going to give it a try — and I hope you will too!
Our Recent Wine Discoveries
Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano 2022 ($17) – The grape is Prugnolo Gentile, a clone of Sangiovese, blended with 20% Merlot. This creates a rich, smooth style with cherry, plum, iron, and tobacco aromas and flavors. Balanced, with solid tannins providing structure. Wine Whisperer rating: WW 90
Robert Hall Paso Red 2020 ($18) – From the Paso Robles region, this blend includes Petite Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel, and three other rich reds. The big, dark, juicy structure supports 15% alcohol. Huge flavors of blackberries, tobacco, and herbal notes. Perfect with smoked meats, burgers, and spicy barbecue. WW 87
Badia a Coltibuono RS Chianti Classico 2021 ($00) – Part of one of the oldest monasteries in the Chianti region. Crafted from 100% Sangiovese, with hints of violets, tobacco, black pepper, and blackberries. WW 89
Jerry Greenfield is The Wine Whisperer — a wine author, educator, and consultant. Order his books, Secrets of the Wine Whisperer and Ask the Wine Whisperer, and read his blog at www.winewhisperer.com.
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